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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest place earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary triumph.